GUCCI — A Different Reaction
A lot has changed in the Italian house of Gucci, especially since Alessandro Michele took creative control of its Fall 2015 men’s collection. Rising above all the previous rumours and uncertainties about Gucci’s future, Michele’s now signature style, which is a genderless, seasonless, formal and casual mixed, is on full display in its Fall 2016 men’s collection.
Gucci brings it’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2016 show at Scalo Farini, a former railway station in Milan, Italy. The interior boasts an ambitious red flush with three distinct seating arrangements for the guests; each sprayed with red lacquer and upholstered in a wealth of red velvet with antiqued stud detailing. Furthermore, the walls are clad with red lacquer boiserie panelling. The models exit through plush red curtains in a plume of smoke and walk down a set of scallop-edged steps.
Presently, Gucci’s philosophy sits somewhere between highbrow and low culture; the label references philosophers such as the Marxist theorist Walter Benjamin ideas around memory and the past, as well as prints of the iconic comic strip character Snoopy and Woodstock.
In the Fall 2016 men’s collection, slight evolvements are seen in its latest offerings, but it is created more so to reaffirm the new creative direction of Gucci. Or, as how the brand would quote das Gewesene, “the traces coming from the past are neither inert and petrified relics, nor simple objects to confine to a museum. They rather need to be read as sort of sparks able to set alight the fuse of the explosive material placed in what has already been.”
In this operation, the clothes become an assemblage of fragments emerging from a temporal time frame. You see an overload of decoration that are overwhelmingly entirety but somehow relatable: Lurex knits are seen on Bermuda shorts and tank tops, kangaroo fur-lined loafers in plaid pattern, and sunglasses encrusted with crystal all made their way to the runway—like an anarchic game breathing freedom and emancipation, encouraging an escape from the established confine of tradition. As most are able to see it clearly, Michele is not inventing any of the sorts but rather reinventing the essence of Gucci’s appeal.
Photographs courtesy of Gucci
Words by E.V. Leong & Melvin Chan